Planner
Window replacement planner
List each window size once with how many you have. We total the openings, flag what needs extra care, and give you a worksheet to send to installers so every quote covers the same thing.
Your plan
Add your windows and press Build my plan.
Window styles compared
| Style | How it opens | Good for | Watch for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Double-hung | Both sashes slide up and down; many tilt in to clean | Traditional Ohio and Michigan homes, bedrooms, easy upstairs cleaning | Two sashes mean more weatherstrip to wear; check air-leakage ratings |
| Single-hung | Only the bottom sash moves | Budget projects, basements and rentals | Top sash can't be cleaned from inside |
| Slider | Sash slides sideways | Wide, short openings, ranch homes, over counters | Bottom track collects grit; keep weep holes open |
| Casement | Cranks outward on a side hinge | Catching breezes, hard-to-reach spots over sinks | Crank hardware wears; sash sticks out into walkways |
| Awning | Cranks outward from the top | Venting during light rain, high or basement openings | Small clear opening; not usually an egress window |
| Picture (fixed) | Does not open | Views and daylight; lowest air leakage | No ventilation or emergency escape |
| Bay or bow | Several units projecting from the wall | Living rooms and adding floor space | Roof, seat board and support work add cost; insulation under the seat matters in our winters |
Double-pane vs triple-pane in Ohio and Michigan
ENERGY STAR sorts window requirements by climate zone. Michigan falls mainly in the Northern zone and most of Ohio in the North-Central zone. Check the ENERGY STAR climate map for your county. Under ENERGY STAR Version 7.0, manufacturer summaries list a maximum U-factor of 0.22 for the Northern zone and 0.25 for North-Central. Lower U-factor means less heat loss. Many manufacturers now meet the Northern zone criteria with triple-pane glass.
| Double-pane low-E (argon) | Triple-pane low-E | |
|---|---|---|
| Heat loss (U-factor) | Good; many units meet North-Central criteria | Lower (better); common way to meet Northern zone criteria |
| Condensation on cold nights | Some on the coldest nights, more with high indoor humidity | Warmer inside glass, so less condensation |
| Street and highway noise | Standard | Usually quieter |
| Weight and hardware | Lighter sashes, easier to tilt and lift | Heavier sashes; ask about balances and hinge ratings |
| Cost | Our planning range covers this for vinyl inserts | Costs more; get quotes (no planning range here) |
| Best fit | Most replacements in Toledo, northwest Ohio and milder exposures | North and west walls, windy lakeshore exposures, bedrooms near busy roads and Michigan winters |
Always compare the NFRC label on each quote: U-factor, solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC), visible transmittance and air leakage. Comparing labels is fairer than comparing brand names.
Frame materials compared
| Frame | Strengths | Trade-offs |
|---|---|---|
| Vinyl | Most common replacement; no painting; good insulation | Wider frames; dark colors can warp in sun on cheaper lines |
| Fiberglass | Stiff and stable through freeze-thaw; slimmer frames; paintable | Costs more than vinyl |
| Wood or clad wood | Traditional look for older and historic homes | Wood needs upkeep; cladding protects the outside |
| Composite | Wood-like look with low upkeep | Fewer product lines to compare |
| Aluminum | Strong and slim; common in commercial storefronts | Conducts cold unless thermally broken; condensation risk in our winters |
Insert vs full-frame
An insert (pocket) window slides into the old frame, which keeps interior trim and costs less, but only works when the frame is square, dry and solid. A full-frame replacement removes everything down to the rough opening, which lets the installer check for rot, re-flash the opening and add insulation. Older Toledo and Detroit-area homes with rotted sills or years of leaks usually need full-frame work at those openings.
Sources: ENERGY STAR climate zone map; ENERGY STAR Version 7.0 summary, Andersen Windows; Energy Star 7.0: what contractors should know, Harvey Windows + Doors.
How to use this tool
- Add each group of windows with its type, size and floor.
- Tick any problems: rot, leaks, fogged glass, drafts or egress.
- Tell us if the house was built before 1978. Lead-safe rules may apply.
- Download the worksheet and give the same one to every installer.
Windows for Ohio and Michigan winters
Michigan falls mainly in ENERGY STAR’s Northern climate zone and most of Ohio in the North-Central zone, so compare the U-factor on each quote. Triple-pane glass is worth pricing for north walls, bedrooms and windy lakeshore exposures. Homes built before 1978 need a lead-safe certified installer.
Insert vs full-frame window replacement
| Insert (pocket) | Full-frame | |
|---|---|---|
| What stays | Existing frame, interior trim and siding | Nothing down to the rough opening |
| Good when | Frames are square, dry and solid | Rot, leaks, or you want to re-flash and insulate |
| Glass area | Slightly smaller | Same or larger |
| Disruption | Less | More: trim and sometimes siding work |
Get a free inspection or multiple bids
Free Asset Protection Inspection
Have the roof you're worried about looked at in person, at no cost and with no obligation. Homes, commercial buildings and HOA communities in Ohio and Michigan.
Inspections are done by our founder, Jonathan Blake, or, if you allow it, by the independent roofing and exterior contractor he works for.
Get three comparable bids
- Save or print this tool's result so every contractor starts from the same numbers.
- Ask at least three contractors for a written proposal on the same scope.
- Compare line by line: area, tear-off, repairs, materials, permits, warranty.
Why plan here first
| What you get | Midwest Roof Calculators | National cost websites | A first number on the doorstep |
|---|---|---|---|
| Built for Ohio and Michigan weather and permits | Yes | Rarely | Varies |
| Shows the formula and every assumption | Yes | Sometimes | Rarely |
| See results before giving contact details | Yes | Often not | No |
| Ranges labeled with what they include and exclude | Yes | Varies | Varies |
| Questions to ask every contractor | Yes | Sometimes | No |
| Replaces an in-person inspection | No, and we say so | No | No |
General comparison of approaches, not of any named company.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between insert and full-frame replacement?
An insert window fits inside the existing frame. A full-frame replacement removes the frame down to the rough opening. Full-frame costs more but lets the installer fix rot and re-flash the opening.
Why does the planner ask when my home was built?
Paint in homes built before 1978 may contain lead. Federal rules require paid renovators who disturb painted surfaces in those homes to be EPA lead-safe certified.
How should I measure windows?
For planning, measure the visible width and height of each window. The installer takes exact measurements before ordering.
Do replacement windows need a permit?
It depends on your city and the work. Egress windows in bedrooms and changes to opening sizes are common triggers. Ask your local building department.
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